Category Archives: watches

Hermes’ Enduring Secrets

Focus on meticulous spiritual imagination and creativity is what makes Hermès stand out from the competition, which is what ‘Hermes Culture’ refers to. In a world full of assembly lines that produce handbags made in China, Hermès insists on hiring artisans in France to sew each Kelly and Birkin bag by hand. Although most of its competitors buy rolls of pre-woven silk from China, Hermès still uses silk from its Brazilian mountain sericulture farm, and then weaves them into silk by itself in Lyon; although most of its competitors use perfume Subcontracted to a large laboratory that also develops food aromas and detergent aromas, but Hermès has a full-time perfumer who blends in his laboratory in his home near Grasse, the world’s perfume capital in southern France. Every new fragrance. Attention to detail and a focus on integrity make Hermès a continued success.

 Today, the luxury goods industry is an industry with an annual output value of 200 billion US dollars, and the main market participants are listed companies. The leader is LVMH, which includes more than 60 major brands, including Givenchy, Fendi, Guerlain, and Moet & Chandon. In the first three quarters of 2013, it achieved amazing sales of 20.715 billion euros. The Louis Vuitton Group, owned and managed by 62-year-old French businessman Bernard Arnault, has an estimated net worth of $ 41 billion, ranking fourth on the Forbes list of the world’s richest people.

 ‘Hermès and Louis Vuitton are two extremes of the cultural and luxury industries. We are handmade and creative, and we strive to produce the finest products in this industry. Craftsmen They poured a lot of emotion into the handbags they made. When customers bought such a handbag, they also bought some values ​​of Hermès. Hermès has been managed by the same family for six generations, which has given this company Something other companies do n’t have. Our struggle with Louis Vuitton has nothing to do with the economy, it is a cultural war. We try to do wonderful things, and we also get very good economic benefits, we must protect at this point.’

 To understand what Pierre-Alexis and Patrick Thomas are saying and why Arnault is a Hermès, you must visit Hermes’ main leatherware workshop in Pantin, a suburb of Paris. There are about 340 artisans hand-made leather goods there using the same craft as more than a century ago.

 The first step in creating a Hermès handbag begins with the tanner, who checks and cuts each piece of leather by hand. ‘How quality cannot escape the eyes and hands of a craftsman,’ said Axel Dumas, chief operating officer of Pierre-Alexis’s cousin Hermès. A personal operation. ‘

 These artisans are the backbone of Hermès. Sometimes customers will order a handbag made of such a rare leather. They must wait until Hermes finds such a leather. The handbags are not priced according to their rarity. For unique items, they can be arbitrarily priced. However, it is not the degree of demand that determines the price at Hermès. The production cost is the determining factor.

 Each craftsman has all the accessories they need to make a bag from start to finish, including zip lock hardware lining and leather cord for piping. These artisans make three or four bags of the same style and same color at a time, all inside and outside are handmade, only the zipper and the inner bag are sewed by the machine.

 When sewing bags by hand, the artisans used the classic saddle stitching, which Hermes has been using since the 19th century. They would use two needles, one on each side of a wax thread long enough to sew a full suture, and place a needle from one direction, then a needle from the other direction, finish sewing and tighten the thread. The craftsman will flatten the seams with a hammer, scrape the edges, sand them, and polish them until they look like a piece of leather.

 The hardware of the handbag is mounted in a process called ‘pearling’. The craftsmen passed a small nail through a small hole in the back of the fastener and a small hole in the leather and the front fastener, trimmed off the excess, leaving only about a millimeter, took an awl with a concave head, and turned it with a hammer Gently tap the nail head in a circle until it becomes rounded like little pearls. If done properly, these pearl-like round heads will keep the two metal fasteners together forever. After that, turn the bag over and iron it. ‘It’s a truly traditional skill,’ said workshop director Lionel Prudhomme. ‘Whenever someone asks me what has changed during the 30 years I’ve been at Hermès, I will Answer ‘Nothing has changed.’ People will change, but the process will not change. ‘

 Some things have changed since Hermès started producing silk products 74 years ago, but not much. Each year, the ‘Carres Hermes’ 90 cm long and 90 cm wide silk scarf design conference is held as scheduled. At the meeting, use the same force to flatten the paper maps, spread them on the floor, and appreciate Hermes silk scarves from a height as high as one person. Looking down will give people a sense of structure. The sense of structure is Hermes. One of the characteristics of scarves.

 Most of Hermès’ scarves were designed by illustrators, but recently Pierre-Alexis found an artist named Antoine Tzapoff, who painted him North American Indian paintings Appreciate very much. Although Hermes rarely cooperates with painters (they often use too much color to prevent reproduction on the scarf), he invited Chapoff to design a scarf for him, which gave him a stunning one. Portrait of an Apache warrior. Pierre-Alexis was fascinated by the painting ‘Cosmogonie Apache’ and sent it to Lyon to transform it into a silk scarf.

 When the painting was sent to Marcel Gandit, a 70-year-old silk-printing company that has been in charge of Hermès since 2004, Nadine Rabilloud, a platemaking drafter who worked at the company for 33 years It took two days to study it to figure out how to deal with it. Eventually, she identified 80 colors, then reduced them to 60, and later reduced it to 45. This is the highest number of colors suitable for Hermès silk printing and dyeing processes. This painting uses 15 colors on the face alone.

 Rabbi used a fountain pen and ink to repaint the portrait’s face by hand on a plastic sheet 90 cm long and 90 cm wide, while two other colleagues were responsible for the background and edges. The three men spent a total of 2,000 hours reorganizing the painting into a scarf pattern.

 After the design plates are completed, each plate will be printed on a piece of polyester fiber cloth stretched out in a 90 cm long and 90 cm wide steel frame. In the past, silk was tightly framed in wooden frames, but later evolved into nylon and metal frames similar to the fabric of the U.S. parachute during World War II. These screens will be placed on an automatic printing and dyeing machine and go through a process along the longest 150-meter-long printing and dyeing station covered with silk. Layers of color are printed and dyed on silk from dark to light. Each coloring process takes 15 to 20 minutes. The more ink is used, the longer it takes. Therefore, the printing and dyeing process of ‘Cosmogonie Apache’, which undergoes 45 coloring programs, takes about 15 hours. The silk printing and dyeing machine operates 24 hours a day, five days a week.

 When the ink is dry, the craftsman will steam the silk scarf to fix the color. Next, the scarves will be washed several times until the fabrics become soft, and then dried, and the fixative will increase their gloss and color protection. The scarves that have completed these processes will be sent to the workshop for crimping and hand stitching. Hermes designs 20 new silk scarves a year, of which 10 are autumn and winter, and the other 10 are spring and summer, each with eight to 10 color variations. Hermes squares now retail for $ 385. After being delivered to the specialty store, the scarves are stored in small glass boxes. The clerk will unfold the scarves on the countertops in a striking way for each discerning customer to taste and try them on. This tradition is also part of the ‘Hermes culture’.

Jacques Sponsors The 69th Venice Film Festival

Film and watchmaking, two different worlds, but with the same ideal: beyond the limit of dreams, make time eternal. At the 69th Venice International Film Festival, the two art worlds worked together for the eighth consecutive time. As a festival partner, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s close relationship with the Venice Film Festival began in 2005, and he has since praised award-winning artists. Jaeger-LeCoultre dating collection watches
Rare crafts pay tribute to film festival
At the 69th Venice International Film Festival, Jaeger-LeCoultre will present two new, diamond-set Rendez-Vous Art dating watches. One is set with gorgeous diamonds, the other is set with diamonds and red, sapphire. The pure hand-inlaid craftsmanship and its rare connotation make the simple watch full of charming halo and beautiful. Like the brand personality ambassador Diane Kruger, the Rendez-Vous dating series represents a spirit of freedom and spontaneity, as well as creative talents that constantly create surprises.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Art
Red Carpet Show
During the film festival, Jaeger-LeCoultre also provided watches and jewelry for the actors and actresses of the Seventh Art, while adding color to the red carpet show of the stars, it also showed the brand’s latest masterpieces and rare crafts … .. Joaillerie 101 jewellery watch, Reverso watch, Rendez-Vous dating series become the star of the celebrity … Reverso watch turned into emergency humanitarian aid: a rose, a child.
AeJaeger-LeCoultre’s collaboration with the Venice International Film Festival has also been given a humanitarian dimension, and the brand has funded the Emergency Humanitarian Association for two consecutive years to help them set up a maternity center in Afghanistan. Many celebrities took part in the charity, holding a rose on the red carpet and wearing a Reverso watch with a rose engraved on the wrist. Rose is the mark of this charity. Among the stars wearing rose-tagged watches, there is the beautiful Italian star Cristina Capotondi, who is the sponsor of the rescue project. An auction will follow, and all proceeds will be donated to the Humane Society for the construction of maternity centers.
Excellent Producer
For 5 years, Jaeger-LeCoultre (Jaeger-LeCoultre, Glory to the Filmmaker) Award), a tribute to outstanding producers. This year’s Jaeger-LeCoultre Production Honor Award will be presented to the well-known director Spyke Lee and his new work, which launched the new ‘Bad 25′, a popular song about the pop king Mike Jackson Documentary. (Link to Pianhua). Of course, at the festival’s closing ceremony, Jaeger-LeCoultre will also reward the best actor and best film winner of the festival, and each of them will get a custom-made Reverso watch, engraved on it. The Venice Film Festival is marked by the golden lion pattern that symbolizes the water city of Venice and the words ’69ème Mostra’ (69th Venice Film Festival).

The Temptation Of The Blue Aventurine Dial: Longines Conqueror Chronograph Mikaela Shiffrin Special Edition

As a respected partner of the skiing world for nearly a century, Longines Longines presents a new Conquest Conqueror series watch tailored for its elegant spokesperson American skier Mikaela Shiffrin. Like many hillsides she has conquered, the ConquestChronograph Conqueror chronograph by Mikaela Shiffrin’s blue aventurine dial is reminiscent of the sparkling crystals of snowflakes, while the red element of the timepiece is reminiscent of the color of the American flag- To pay tribute to the champion’s home country. The entire Conquest Conqueror series cleverly combines sports performance and elegance, showing the deep connection between Longines and the sports world.

American skier Mikaela Shiffrin and the Conquest Conqueror series tailor-made for her.
 As the official designated timing manufacturer for the Alpine Ski World Cup and Alpine Ski World Championships, Longines has long played an important role in ski competitions. Longines is proud to invite the talented Mikaela Shiffrin to be an elegant spokesperson.
 The U.S.-based skier has been a Longines spokesperson since 2014 and visited the headquarters in Saint-Mille, Switzerland in 2018. She explores the watchmaking profession of the brand through the Longines Museum and Watchmaking Workshop. Taking full advantage of this opportunity, MikaelaShiffrin designed his own exclusive watch from the Conquest Conqueror series. The Conquest Conqueror collection symbolizes Longines’ commitment to the sports world and its long tradition of being a sports timekeeper. This collection combines the brand’s renowned elegance and performance, and has continued to grow steadily over the years.

American skier Mikaela Shiffrin.
 MikaelaShiffrin eagerly brings his vitality and elegance to this watch’s design. To celebrate the opening of the FIS Alpine Skiing World Cup, this watch was released in Sölden in October 2018. The Longines elegance ambassador said at the press conference: ‘When I visit Saint-Mil and explore the behind the watch When it comes to complex processes, I am very happy to participate in creating my own exclusive watch. I am honored to be named on a Longines timepiece. ConquestChronograph Conqueror Chronograph byMikaelaShiffrin presents my sports characteristics and retains them Its full feminine elegance. ‘
 The ConquestChronograph Conqueror Chronograph by Mikaela Shiffrin’s blue aventurine dial design and the red elements on the edges and hands of the stopwatch are reminiscent of the American flag. This design highlights the skier’s home country and his famous ski clothing. For the first time, Longines has created this faceplate with aventurine. This high-quality gemstone will show different colors and vitality under different light. The flash of aventurine is reminiscent of the shimmering snow covered by the champion’s slippery hillside.

Longines ConquestChronograph Conqueror Chronograph by MikaelaShiffrin stainless steel case, 36 mm diameter, blue aventurine dial, hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph, quartz movement, sapphire crystal, special engraved case back, Water resistant to 300 meters, stainless steel chain.
 ConquestChronograph Conqueror Chronograph byMikaelaShiffrin’s caseback is engraved with a special design that outlines the silhouette of this skier and her signature. To enhance the sportiness and technical style, this unique masterpiece is equipped with a stainless steel bracelet, and the specially designed watch box for this event is matched with the main color of the timepiece and the exclusive signature of the elegant ambassador.

Zenith El Primero 410 In Search Of Legendary Footprint

Zenith’s latest 410 model watch will surely cheer watch collectors. This prestigious movement was born in 1969 and is another masterpiece of the legendary El Primero series. It not only has the most accurate automatic timekeeping function in the world, but also deliberately adds a triple calendar display and moon phase display. Time goes by, the classics last. This new watch combines tradition with modernity, both with a dial display that is true to the history of the watch, and a unique modern case design.

El Primero 410 watch

In 1969, when humans landed on the moon for the first time, a small step of one person symbolized a big step for all human beings. In the same year, ZENITH also took an unprecedented step in the field of watches. After seven years of intensive research, ZENITH Watch Factory officially launched the first integrated automatic chronograph in the history with both a date display and scale marks. In addition to this breathtaking and innovative design, this watch also has outstanding precision performance. Its movement has a high vibration frequency of 36,000 beats per hour, which is equivalent to an accuracy of one tenth of a second. Since its founding in 1865, the Zenith watch factory has relied on the bold and innovative spirit to pioneer and move forward. Today, the brand has more than 300 patented designs. However, the ZENITH watch factory did not stop there. It tried to challenge the limits of the art of the watch, embed the three calendar display and moon phase display function into the movement, and turned it into a well-known masterpiece. Was the name of this movement also born in 1969? It was first named El Primero 3019 PHF, and later renamed Caliber 410. This movement is equipped with a column wheel and has a 50-hour power reserve. Like other El Primero movements of the Zenith watch, it is a brand’s iconic work. Until 2000, the 410 movement has withstood the test of time, with its precise and reliable performance, it has confirmed its outstanding quality. But the legend will not leave the stage of history. In 2013, Zenith remade this movement into a limited edition of 500 watches and equipped it with a bright charcoal grey dial.
From the 1970s to the 21st century
Half a century after its introduction, the El Primero 410 movement has undergone several evolutions, leading to a new model named after its name. Today, this new masterpiece will also be part of the legendary El Primero collection. This silver dial watch launched this year references the functional layout of the original model, with every detail exuding a strong 1970s style. The day of the week and month displays are at 10 and 2 o’clock, while the date display is always at 4:30. The moon phase function is located at 6 o’clock. The uniquely shaped display window clearly shows the evolution of the celestial body, and two circular slices cleverly reproduce the dark side of the moon. It will be very easy to show the changes of the moon’s various phases (first quarter moon, full moon, second quarter moon, new moon) through the display window. The wheel with two lunar surfaces is connected to a 59-tooth gear, which is exactly the same as the two lunar periods (2×29.5 days). This watch is a reinterpretation of the moon’s gloom and weakness through this sophisticated and poetic way.
El Primero 410 movement, while recreating classic style, is also equipped with rare complications. ZENITH uses a technique of ingenuity that not only retains the original quality of the iconic works of the last century, but also injects modernity into it, making this watch a truly unique treasure. The 42-mm stainless steel case has a smooth arc-shaped circle. The perfect combination of polished and frosted details design complements each other and highlights modern features. The round stopwatch buttons add a new finishing touch to the look, while the snailed chronograph dial contrasts with the silver sun dial. The cream-colored flange surrounds the graduated markings, and the rhodium-plated hands rotate low-key on the dial to make the reading more clear. The tail of the pure blue chronograph seconds hand is also embellished with a ZENITH star, which is the symbol of the brand’s distinguished quality and precision chronograph technology. The El Primero 410 watch consists of a total of 390 fine parts. The transparent sapphire crystal case back provides a glimpse of this fascinating mechanical combination. This one-of-a-kind treasure is truly the best expression of ZENITH’s bold innovation spirit. There is nothing more fun than wearing the symbol of time on your wrist?